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Gerry Turnbull
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: Scotland
Posts: 8766
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 4:13pm | IP Logged | 1
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Brilliant pose on the Abomination !
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Gerry Turnbull
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: Scotland
Posts: 8766
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 4:13pm | IP Logged | 2
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Ryan Maxwell
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12959
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 4:22pm | IP Logged | 3
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Marrina looks fantastic. I'd love to see a pearlescent sheen on her so she looks wet.
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Michael Lee
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 1133
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 4:41pm | IP Logged | 4
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Thanks for the sentiments & tips guys. I'll let you know how things turn out.
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John Lee
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 25 November 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 163
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 4:45pm | IP Logged | 5
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I know how you feel Michael, I had a Statue break on me like that as well. Best of luck on getting it repaired.
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John Bodin
Byrne Robotics Member
Purveyor of Rare Items
Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 3911
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 5:28pm | IP Logged | 6
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Michael -- if the breaks are clean, good ol' Super Glue should work just fine. Test-fit the parts one at a time -- if the pieces fit back together nicely with no seams or gaps showing when they're properly positioned, the repairs may be almost undetectable once everything is glued back together (often the case with clean breaks on ceramic-like substances like this).
If the breaks ARE clean and it looks like Super Glue repairs will be possible, you should be able to tackle it yourself, if you follow some general guidelines:
1. Apply glue sparingly -- you don't want it to gush out around the edges because that will leave a glue "bead" which will spoil that nice, neat, smooth, nearly-invisible seam once everything is cured and re-assembled. If you DO have some excess glue "splooge" out around the seams, wipe it away quickly with a tissue and discard the tissue immediately (if you leave it laying around and need to wipe more, you might grab the used tissue and inadvertently wipe glue BACK onto the statue . . . which is frustrating, to say the least).
2. When putting the statue back together, make sure you put it back together one piece at a time -- glue a piece in place, hold it in-place until the glue bond sets firmly (very important), then leave it alone until you're sure that the the glue has completely cured (a half-hour or so should be sufficient). Super Glues (or CA glues) tend to "grab" quickly, but most of the more common retail varieties don't really set that quickly, so a piece that seems to be attached can easily slip, slide, or even end up stuck to your finger (which often happens when the uncured glue starts sliding around -- and in that case you'll often get more "gushing" or "splooging" as described above).
3. After you get the first piece set in place, then put the next piece in place, wait, then repeat until you have everything reassembled.
Look at any re-assembly effort from a "puzzle" perspective -- test-fit all the parts to make sure that you know what order they need to go back together -- otherwise you might start with a random piece and then find out that the NEXT piece won't fit because it should have been put in place first (it looks like Doom's "collar" should go on before his head, for example, but I can't tell if the pieces of the cape should be put on before the "buttons" and the "rope" portion, for example).
This may sound daunting, but it looks like you're dealing with some clean breaks, so I'd imagine this would be very do-able. If you do have some chips, you might need to do a little touch-up with paint, but when things like this are sitting on a shelf for display, you typically won't even notice small chips unless you're handling and inspecting the piece.
FWIW, I just rebuilt one of my wife's ceramic pieces recently after it took a dive off our dresser -- not all the breaks were clean and there were a few chips and ceramic fragments that were lost, leaving some gaps in the final re-assembly, but even so the end result looks pretty good unless you inspect it closely.
Edited by John Bodin on 04 June 2008 at 5:35pm
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John Byrne
Grumpy Old Guy
Joined: 11 May 2005
Posts: 133523
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 6:32pm | IP Logged | 7
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Marrina. . . snif
And, yes, the Abomination. See? Doesn't he look ridiculous? No WAY they
could have used that look in the new movie!
%#^#ing Hollywood. . . . .
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Chris Hutton
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 11667
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| Posted: 04 June 2008 at 7:11pm | IP Logged | 8
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JB, I thought the same thing before I got to your post.
thunder-stealer!!
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Brad Teschner
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 01 June 2005
Location: United States
Posts: 3933
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| Posted: 05 June 2008 at 12:02am | IP Logged | 9
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That Abomination is friggin' awesome!!!
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Michael Lee
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 1133
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| Posted: 05 June 2008 at 4:31am | IP Logged | 10
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John - thanks for the tips. I'm feeling a bit more confident now that I can tackle the job myself.
More good news - as the parcel was sent via USPS Priority International Mail there is some insurance to be claimed.
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John Peter Britton
Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 17 May 2006
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 9129
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| Posted: 05 June 2008 at 8:41am | IP Logged | 11
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Two more i picked up today to add to my Star Trek collection.
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John Byrne
Grumpy Old Guy
Joined: 11 May 2005
Posts: 133523
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| Posted: 05 June 2008 at 10:01am | IP Logged | 12
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Even tho it's identified as "Bob Kane", pretty much had to have this one. . .
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