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John Bodin
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Posted: 20 August 2008 at 7:33am | IP Logged | 1 post reply

 Ryan Maxwell wrote:
Geez, John, once you start getting finished pieces up I think I'll stop.  Those are both shaping up to be fantastic.  Your green stuff is so smooth!

No worries about me finishing anything, Ryan -- after posting these pics I noticed that Iron Man's left boot cuff is noticeably lower than the right one, and it's bugging the heck out of me (didn't notice it until I looked at the pictures . . . DOH!).  That means I'm going to have to carve off the boot cuff tonight and re-sculpt it -- which means further delays on the other detailing that remains.  Thankfully, I did get the power pods done last night (talk about tiny fussy details in Kneadatite -- that alone was an exercise in patience and smoothing!).

As for smoothing Green Stuff, I wear latex gloves, moisten my finger tips, and use a light buffing-type touch to smooth the surface -- the water acts as a lubricant and helps with the smoothing.  It takes a bit of practice, but once you figure out how to do it you can get a nice, smooth, shiny finish with little effort (just takes a lot of patience).

Besides, if it means you'll be quitting, then I'll just have to shelve these projects and make them eternal works-in-progress -- I really enjoy seeing your customs (you're an inspiration to me, in fact), and I'd hate to be the cause of your early "retirement"!

;-)

Steve:  Nice work!  Your casting efforts are providing me with incentive to give THAT a try -- if my Shellhead conversion comes out halfway decent, I'd like to try casting that.  I'm sure there are at least a couple of Eaglemoss collectors around here who wouldn't mind having a classic red-and-gold Shellhead for their collection, even if it was done in resin instead of lead.

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Ryan Maxwell
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Posted: 20 August 2008 at 7:44am | IP Logged | 2 post reply

Count me as a casting customer!

I'll definitely be trying out latex gloves from now on.  I'm having fits trying to get the flared out "fins" done on Wolverine's mask and boots.  They are way more delicate and finicky than slapping green stuff on and smoothing it out.

And I have found by posting photos here that all sorts of mistakes appear on my work that I hadn't noticed beforehand.  It's been a very useful exercise.
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Joe Zhang
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Posted: 20 August 2008 at 8:12am | IP Logged | 3 post reply

It takes a brave man to want to sculpt and paint the Jack of Hearts.
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John Bodin
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Posted: 20 August 2008 at 9:04am | IP Logged | 4 post reply

 Ryan Maxwell wrote:
Count me as a casting customer!

If (when?) I'm able to pull off a successful casting, I'll gladly provide you with a unpainted reproduction piece -- I'd love to see what the finished product would look like given YOUR painting abilities.

:-)

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John Bodin
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Posted: 20 August 2008 at 9:07am | IP Logged | 5 post reply

 Joe Zhang wrote:
It takes a brave man to want to sculpt and paint the Jack of Hearts.

Brave or crazy -- not sure which.  I always love a good challenge, though, and I haven't seen any custom versions of Jack of Hearts yet, so that gives me the opportunity to be the first . . . assuming I ever get it finished, that is! 

:-D

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Steve Lyons
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Posted: 20 August 2008 at 9:17pm | IP Logged | 6 post reply

I swear by my latex gloves.  It helps give a nice surface texture to sculpture, whether its clay, epoxy putty, or polyester clays.  Keeps stuff off your hands when casting stuff, too.

Casting is a blast, John.  I use Alumilite products and can't speak highly enough of them.  It's kind of frustrating when you open a mold and find air bubbles, but a good pressure pot will cure that kind of thing.  Now I just need a pressure pot....

Give it a try! 

And I'm digging that Iron Man you're working on.  I've got a Layton IM I've been holding off finishing for a while now.  I'll try to get some pics up soon.  And that Jack of Hearts looks to be all kinds of wicked cool.

How tall are those Eaglemoss figures?

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John Bodin
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Posted: 20 August 2008 at 9:58pm | IP Logged | 7 post reply

Thanks so much for the tips on Alumilite products, Steve -- I've done a lot of research into the Alumilite Mini Casting Kit and the Alumilite Super Casting Kit (both of which are carried by my local Hobby Lobby), and everything I've read or heard has been positive, so I'll add your recommendations to my list!

:-)

If (when?) I ever get around to trying to cast the Iron Man custom, I'd be happy to send an unpainted  resin copy your way if you'd like.  Not sure how difficult the Jack of Hearts figurine will be to cast -- the undercuts on the shoulder "flares" may make it difficult to do as a 2-part casting, but if the figure turns out as nice as it looks like it's going to, I'm definitely going to want to try to reproduce it, too. 

Thankfully, given the fact that the Eaglemoss figurines are only about 3" tall (smaller even than a Star Wars action figure, and only about half as tall as a Marvel Legends action figure), even a difficult figurine shouldn't be too hard to cast, so even if I had to do a "complex" 3-piece mold, it would still be a fairly easy project.

Looking forward to seeing your Layton IM -- post pics when you get a chance (work-in-progress pics are always welcome, too!).

EDITED TO ADD:  Small progress report on the Iron Man figurine -- I carved off the boot cuff on the left leg of the Iron Man figurine tonight (the one that was too short), and I was able to successfully build-up the boot section high enough to allow me to place the cuff in the proper location.  The entire top half of the boot is now curing, and the side-pods I did last night look like they're going to fit perfectly, so that just leaves the neck "collar" section, the shoulder "collars," and the chest beam and the charging ports on the upper chest.  The squared-off aspect of these bits will make for some fussy sculpting, but it's finally starting to feel like I'm getting close to the end on this one.


Edited by John Bodin on 20 August 2008 at 10:04pm
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Steve Lyons
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Posted: 21 August 2008 at 4:04pm | IP Logged | 8 post reply

No sweat on the Alumilite tips, John.  You're gonna love it.

If you're gonna cast IM's, I'd recommend coating the interior of the mold with Alumilite's gold powder first.  It eliminates the need for a lacquer or other paint coating for a mold release, and the metallic effect is outstanding.  I'd love to have one when you're ready.

As promised, a WIP pic of the Layton Iron Man:

He's still got a long way to go, but it's a start.

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Steve Lyons
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Posted: 21 August 2008 at 4:06pm | IP Logged | 9 post reply

Oh, one more thing, John.  When you're ready to cast, I recommend using the HSII or HSIII RTV rubber.  It's much softer than the standard Quickset rubber Alumilite offers, and you'll get more pieces out of a mold before it wears out.
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John Bodin
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Posted: 21 August 2008 at 11:02pm | IP Logged | 10 post reply

Ooh!  Liking that Layton Iron Man, Steve -- was that done using the Alumilite gold powder?  If so, I'm definitely going to want to go that route with Shellhead, because that looks SWEET! 

Got a source for the Alumilite gold powder, and the HSII and HDIII RTV compounds?  I don't think Hobby Lobby carries anything but the mini kit and the super kit.
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Steve Lyons
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Posted: 21 August 2008 at 11:21pm | IP Logged | 11 post reply

Sure, John.  Try this:

http://www.alumilite.com

If your local hobby shop doesn't carry what you want, these nice folks can help you out.

I discovered the gold powder after I'd done most of Iron Man. The head and the upper arms are powdered.  The rest is currently just Testors gold paint.

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John Bodin
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Posted: 22 August 2008 at 7:45am | IP Logged | 12 post reply

Thanks for the link, Steve -- I was just poking around their site last night and found that they sell their stuff directly, which is cool.

Quick question -- what type of molds do you do (2-piece, squish molds, etc.)?  If you use 2-piece molds, do you use the more conventional clay build-up method?  Over on the Iron Cow Production message boards, one of the action figure customizers ("Glassman") uses a 2-piece molding technique that doesn't utilize the clay build-up approach -- here's a link to his tutorial, which shows pics of how he does it:

http://www.ironcowprod.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31 9

Looks interesting -- seems like it's an extremely quick way to reproduce small parts or pieces.

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