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jose alicea Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 November 2008 Location: United States Posts: 115
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Posted: 23 November 2008 at 1:44pm | IP Logged | 1
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WOW.Those commissions are amazing.John never fails.
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Stephen Bergstrom Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 18 December 2004 Location: United States Posts: 522
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Posted: 24 November 2008 at 5:22am | IP Logged | 2
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Speaking as an ex-professional picture framer, for 20x30 art, it could be matted into a 24x36 frame, if you don't mind the mat being somewhat uneven. One could make the top and sides even at 2" apiece, and the bottom would be 4", which is known in the industry as a "weighted" bottom. That particular practice got started when it became apparent that hanging art high up on a very tall wall made the bottom of the mat look narrower than the other three sides, thanks to foreshortening. At least, that's how it was explained to me, although I would think that the top of the mat would look even narrower, but what the hey. If you can find a frame that works with your art, a ready-made frame is certainly the economical choice.
If the virtues of acid-free mats haven't already been made known to you, I highly recommend them, especially with regards to original art. Most paper contains lignin, which is an acidic substance that is responsible for the yellowing of paper over time. Even though white paper has been bleached to remove most of the lignin, enough remains for the yellowing to occur. The acid-free mats contain alkaline substances that help to combat this process.
U/V protective, or ultraviolet protective, glass is also a good choice for artwork protection. The vast majority of the fading of pigments can be attributed to the ultraviolet spectrum of light. To help reduce this, U/V glass has been treated with a special film that blocks up to 98% of the available U/V rays, depending on the source. Direct sunlight will still fade artwork, even with this glass, so be wary of the frame salesman who will assure you that the hyper-expensive "museum glass" will protect the art from direct sunlight. Pure hyperbole. The sun is nasty to art, and nothing short of opaque products will protect it, and that doesn't promote viewing. U/V protective glass is for places where low-level direct lighting and high-level indirect lighting is all that will touch your art.
I noticed that some of the art posted here appears to be framed in non-glare glass. Unless this is also U/V treated, it is actually worse for your art than regular glass. Think about it. Instead of reflecting the light back, it's refracting more of it onto the art, and although visible light doesn't do as much damage as U/V rays, it will still contribute to fading.
Since this is turning into a very long post, I'll simply close with this: There is a professional organization, the PPFA (Professional Picture Framers Association) that is dedicated to the promotion and advancement of picture framing techniques. Any frame shop that boasts a Certified Picture Framer is completely versed in conservation framing, and any piece that is framed using conservation methods by such an individual is likely to ensure that the art will keep in its present condition for decades.
Hope this helped.
Edited by Stephen Bergstrom on 24 November 2008 at 5:26am
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Wilson Mui Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 27 June 2004 Location: United States Posts: 4560
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Posted: 24 November 2008 at 5:44am | IP Logged | 3
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Great advice, Stephen. Thank you for the post!
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Wilson Mui Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 27 June 2004 Location: United States Posts: 4560
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Posted: 08 December 2008 at 6:49pm | IP Logged | 4
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Here are my pieces....
When I hung up the Spider-Man piece in my kid's playroom, my daughter told me I had it upside-down.
Edited by Wilson Mui on 08 December 2008 at 6:56pm
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Brad Brickley Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 29 April 2004 Location: United States Posts: 8290
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Posted: 08 December 2008 at 10:24pm | IP Logged | 5
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Maybe put the Spider-Man on the ceiling, then it'd look right!
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Clint Ludwick Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 17 April 2007 Location: United States Posts: 1952
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Posted: 09 December 2008 at 8:15am | IP Logged | 6
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Brad....pretty cool idea!
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Flavio Sapha Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 16 April 2004 Location: Brazil Posts: 12912
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Posted: 09 December 2008 at 8:29am | IP Logged | 7
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Genius!
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Clint Ludwick Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 17 April 2007 Location: United States Posts: 1952
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Posted: 21 December 2008 at 12:59pm | IP Logged | 8
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updated pic on page 3.
Edited by Clint Ludwick on 26 December 2008 at 2:21pm
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Bill Brown Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 10 September 2008 Posts: 533
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Posted: 21 December 2008 at 1:54pm | IP Logged | 9
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any special sequence here Clint? Like, so the frames spell words or something (LOL)?
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Clint Ludwick Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 17 April 2007 Location: United States Posts: 1952
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Posted: 21 December 2008 at 3:04pm | IP Logged | 10
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Actually, I tried to do my best to rotate "classic" monster, Marvel monster, "classic" monster, etc....if that makes sense.
The question is....other than Ghost Rider, who's missing? I know 1 will be a surprise!
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Joe Hollon Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 08 May 2004 Location: United States Posts: 13707
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Posted: 21 December 2008 at 3:12pm | IP Logged | 11
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"The question is....other than Ghost Rider, who's missing? I know 1 will be a surprise!"
****
A surprise to you or a surprise to us? Are you asking for more suggestions? I always have ideas...
Oh, and they look awesome together on the wall! Great job!
Edited by Joe Hollon on 21 December 2008 at 3:14pm
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Joakim Jahlmar Byrne Robotics Member
Joined: 10 October 2005 Location: Sweden Posts: 6080
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Posted: 21 December 2008 at 5:13pm | IP Logged | 12
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Awesome wall, Clint!!!
And if I count correctly, there'll be two more "classic" monsters and one more Marvel monster. Beats me what they'll be though, but as always looking forward to seeing them. :)
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