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John Byrne
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Grumpy Old Guy

Joined: 11 May 2005
Posts: 133333
Posted: 14 February 2008 at 11:05am | IP Logged | 1 post reply

'll probably give the remover/acetone a go this weekend, Mark. I'll let you
know. I'm just going to set it up outside and walk away for a couple hours.

••

I did that with a plastic figure, once. Returned to find a small puddle of goo.
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Don Zomberg
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Joined: 23 November 2005
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Posted: 14 February 2008 at 11:27am | IP Logged | 2 post reply

I don't plan on messing with the shield, Ryan--I just can't stand the "dark red" or the blotchy white on his uniform. We'll see. It may be better to just leave well enough alone, too.
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John Byrne
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Grumpy Old Guy

Joined: 11 May 2005
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Posted: 14 February 2008 at 11:57am | IP Logged | 3 post reply

Am I the only one who…


Wait -- strike that --


Why the resistance to Cap's darker red? I like it.
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Don Zomberg
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Joined: 23 November 2005
Posts: 2355
Posted: 14 February 2008 at 12:00pm | IP Logged | 4 post reply

It just looks better to me when it's "brighter," like in the comics. To me the figure looks like he spent some time lying in the dirt. And it's mostly the white I have a problem with on mine.
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Ryan Maxwell
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Joined: 16 April 2004
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Posted: 14 February 2008 at 12:20pm | IP Logged | 5 post reply

I feel the same.  I much prefer the brighter red, and I went with a pure white to get rid of the baby blue undertones.  The face on mine is what was really the worst part, though.
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Vinny Valenti
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Joined: 17 April 2004
Location: United States
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Posted: 15 February 2008 at 10:27am | IP Logged | 6 post reply

Most American flags I've seen use the brighter color of red, so I feel Cap's costume should reflect that.
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John Byrne
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Grumpy Old Guy

Joined: 11 May 2005
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Posted: 15 February 2008 at 11:16am | IP Logged | 7 post reply

The recent Bowen Caps, plus the AVENGERS 4 figure recreation all have the
darker red, except on the shield, where it seems appropriate that the red
should be brighter.

On the uniform, somehow the darker hue works better for me. More, I
dunno, military.
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John Bodin
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Purveyor of Rare Items

Joined: 16 April 2004
Location: United States
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Posted: 15 February 2008 at 12:15pm | IP Logged | 8 post reply

Re:  Paint removal

Per some recommendations I've read on some lead military miniatures sites, I tried using Pine-Sol to remove the paint from my donor for the Iron Man convesion I'm working on.  I soaked the figure in a roughly 70/30 Pine-Sol and water mix for about a week (put it in a shallow aluminum pot pie pan, placed the pan in a bucket with a lid, then let it sit in my garage) -- when I took the figure out of the Pine-Sol bath, the paint seemed slick and greasy but it still felt intact, for the most part, like the Pine-Sol didn't even touch it.

I took a toothbrush to it, though, and the paint started to abrade a bit; with a bit more brushing, the paint began to slide off in large chunks.  After a bit more scrubbing, almost all of the paint just slid off, more or less -- there's still some paint in some of the crevices, but I think acetone would fix that.

The base was a different story, though -- I had the figure laying down, so part of the base wasn't immersed, and as a result, I was left with a bare metal figure and a base in bad need of full paint removal (the paint seemed to adhere to the plastic base more tenaciously than it did to the lead).  Some of the paint did come off the base, and the plastic underneath was unscathed by the Pine-Sol, which is good.  I have repeated the Pine-Sol bath procedure -- this time making sure to immerse all of the base -- and I left the figure in the garage again for the past week or so.  I'll probably take it out over the weekend and try to get the paint off the base, then I'll borrow some of my wife's acetone nail polish remover to get the paint out of the crevices on the metal parts of the figure.

THEN the trimming and sculpting begins -- I'll be using two-part Kneadatite apoxy ("green stuff") to form the armor details . . . as I said earlier in the thread, my plan is to create a classic red-and-gold version of Iron Man (the "Iron Robot" figure they produced just doesn't cut it for me).

Anyway, to make a long story short, Pine-Sol does seem to work for paint removal, and it doesn't seem to damage the plastic base, but it's not very aggressive and it takes time and patience (and a toothbrush and some scrubbing).  If you're impatient, paint thinner or acetone might be quicker, but I caution anybody who tries to strip the paint on these figures to be careful of the base -- it IS plastic, NOT lead, so some chemicals might be fine for removing the paint from the lead figure but they might do damage to the base.

Hope this helps!

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Ryan Maxwell
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Posted: 15 February 2008 at 12:22pm | IP Logged | 9 post reply

The advice is much appreciated, JBodin!  I never would have thought Pine-Sol could do that.

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David Ferguson
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Joined: 17 March 2007
Location: Ireland
Posts: 6782
Posted: 15 February 2008 at 12:44pm | IP Logged | 10 post reply

Just picked up Black Bolt from my LCS. Very nice. Hope they release more Inhumans.
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Al Cook
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Joined: 21 December 2004
Posts: 12736
Posted: 15 February 2008 at 12:45pm | IP Logged | 11 post reply

"On the uniform, somehow the darker hue works better for me. More, I
dunno, military."

Would you have disliked the Star Trek II-VI uniforms less then if they were
darker red too? Or was it the military aspect itself that didn't appeal there?
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John Byrne
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Grumpy Old Guy

Joined: 11 May 2005
Posts: 133333
Posted: 15 February 2008 at 1:55pm | IP Logged | 12 post reply

The ST II-VI uniforms didn't appeal to me because they were not military
enough. They were too busy and "designy", like the retooled
Enterprise (inside and out).

William Theiss' uniforms for TOS were simple and straightforward, as we
would expect practical uniforms to be.
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