|Posted: July 18 2008 at 10:20am | IP Logged | 12
1) Acrylic craft paints, available at most Michael's stores or places like JoAnn Etc. or Hobby Lobby. Some folks use the more expensive Citadel model paints, but the craft paints work fine (much cheaper and you get more). Make sure you thin the paint with water first -- thin to the point of being runny, then apply multiple coats.
2) I'm usually carving or Dremeling off details if I'm doing a custom. I always use a primer -- Krylon Fusion works very well on the type of plastics used for action figures. I use gray satin or white satin Krylon Fusion as a primer depending on what I'm working on. Gray works well for figures with a lot of sculpted-on details; I primarily use gray firm Super Sculpy, and gray primer makes for a good base, and a gray primer on the baked Sculpy helps reveal details that need more sanding or more rework. White satin primer helps colors to "pop" better, though, especially if you're looking for a bright, colorful finish.
3) After painting, I always use a clear satin finish to seal the figure. This helps reduce the chance of paint chips, and it gives the figure a consistent finish. Also, the clear satin finish helps prevent dust from adhering to the figure -- a clear gloss finish will have a tendency to get "fuzzy" over time as dust seems to have a greater tendency to stick to the surface.
In response to the question you asked in the Statues, Action Figures, and Other Toys thread about using a marker to black-in the mask on the Batman figure you have, I would recommend using a Sharpie permanent marker. Any non-Sharpie (or non-permanent) marker WOULD fade (or even worse, wipe off or smear!), but a Sharpie works very well for these type of "fixes" (this kind of thing is more of a "fix" or a "tweak," rather than a full-blown customization which might require priming, repainting, etc.).
[Typos, added additional response on the use of Sharpie permanent markers]
Edited by John Bodin on July 18 2008 at 10:32am